Showing posts with label Nicaragua. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nicaragua. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 4, 2007

The Forgetting of Elvin Hayes & Education in Nicaragua, 1989

This is a two-parter. First is about Passover. If you want to skip it, you can go right to Education in Nicaragua.


The Forgetting of Elvin Hayes

I went to a family seder last night in Highland Park--not my family's. It was presented to me as a full-bodied thing, with lots of singing, and it was. I was the odd person out. I came by myself, but there were place cards, so I got to sit by the hostess. L opted not to go; he was traumatized by his bar mitzvah and avoids ritual as much as possible. We went to B & S's seder on Monday, for which L gave up watching the Florida-OSU game in real time. (He recorded the game with our neighbor Z's TiVo to watch after the seder. We won't talk about how during the meal X announced the score at the end of the second half.) I have long had an image in my mind of the seder of my dreams. It's like a class of my dreams. Everyone is smart and engaged and wants the reading and discussion to go on and on. Our family has never had seders like that. They can't be coerced. They aren't big singers. My aunt was a good singer but she died. My other aunt's second husband was a good singer but when my aunt died he went elsewhere for seder. My father was an off-key but enthusastic singer, but he died. His rendition of Khad Gadya, one of the songs at the end, sounded like a football cheer in Hebrew with Yiddish pronounciation. I have not heard the like of it since. This generation of children is quiet and not show-offy. You need people with bluster to carry songs all the way through. They say that cantors are frustrated opera singers. We need frustrated Broadway musical actors at our seders.

The seders I lead are big, maybe 25 people, and the people are usually sitting at five different tables. That makes it hard for discussion. For a while we would go around and say who we missed, but then it got too sad. At the end of the service, we say, Next year in Jerusalem. Meaning, next year perfection. In that spirit, we've written wishes on index cards and then read wishes written and saved from the year before. That got too sad, too. Then we'd talk about Passover memories, but they were mostly generic. I wrote a series of "I remember"s, linked to different eras, such as: I remember how hot my the soles of my feet would get when we were walking in the desert.... I remember blisters all over my hands from the bricks for the Egyptians... OK, I can't think of any of my better examples. I would pass these out to everyone, and each person would read a different one aloud. Was this meaningful to my constituents? I don't know. Was it just an exercise in literary ego?

I started leading the seder in the first place when I encountered an egalitarian haggadah written by Aviva Cantor and published in her magazine, Lilith. My father let me incorporate it into his service, which used a pre-war Reconstructionist haggadah and featured illustrations of androgynous men wearing loose shifts. I don't remember when this was, but by 1990 I had photocopied haggadahs for everyone, using several elements and probably violating several copyrights. What was nice about the book haggadahs was the leader (my father, and before him, his father) would make notes, so you would see, next to the Mah Nishtanah, said by the youngest child, the name of my aunt who was now very much an adult.

I've been looking for years for new information and readings to include, and this is the secret--there's not much out there. Yes, there are ideas for acting out scenes from the exodus; there are songs about the plagues that God brought on the Egyptians ("Frogs frogs frogs") and a song about the four sons, to the tune of "Clementine"; there are passages that describe the important role of midwives Shifra and Puah, and of Moses' sister, Miriam; there are questions meant to be thought-provoking, like: What are some modern plagues?; there are haggadahs that talk about Israel's guilt in Sabra and Shatilah; you can talk about the Warsaw Ghetto and sing the partisan fight song; there are prayers re-written to include the feminine aspect of God--but the truth is, most haggadahs are the same. They tell the same story, about the Jews coming into Egypt, and being enslaved there, and being led out by God, and becoming thusly a people with a land. There are many things to talk about, but you can't force discussion. Our most heated discussion Monday night came after dinner, when we were trying to figure out who the Maccabees had fought against (I know, wrong holiday). The dinner guest to my right, a half-Jewish, atheist high school senior in a Catholic school, had perceptive anti-religious barbs to deliver, which we all agreed with. She was used to challenging the nuns. How can you engender a discussion in which everyone has something at stake? I don't feel like "sharing" what I feel enslaved to in my personal life, or listing, condescendingly, the golden calves of America. I don't feel like naming Jewish women I admire. (An aside: At a seder two years ago, in response to this request for naming, my Republican cousin said, Condoleeza Rice.) To me, the inescapable question is, Why are we here? but that may not be so relevant after all.

At the family seder last night, our leader was like a good teacher. We read through the service and he would offer tidbits now and then. That every time there's a pivotal point in the Bible, there's a woman. There's a famous paragraph in the haggadah in which five rabbis are mentioned. This paragraph usually falls, by chance, to a young reader who stumbles over all their names. We are told that they stayed up all night discussing Passover. This is an object lesson for the rest of us, who've been through the story dozens of times: Even the greats found something to discuss. They were splitting hairs, such as debating whether "all the days of your life" included the nights, both actual and metaphorical. Another interpretation of their all-nighter is that they were staying up to plan the Bar Kochba rebellion (132-135 CE) against the Romans, who were oppressing the Jews. What our leader did last night was tell a little about each of these guys we'd been naming every year. Rabbi Tarfon, for example, was famous for saying, "It is not your job to finish the task, nor are you free to avoid it all together." And another was known as the last holdout to favor making chicken pareve.

Each family has its own ways of doing things and I missed our ritual of reciting a counting song, "Who Knows One?" in English. Everyone tries to say the last paragraph about numbers 1-13 in one breath. This family sang it in Hebrew, and kept going faster and faster with each added number. I also missed singing "Elvin Hayes" instead of "El b'nai" in the chorus to "Adir Hu." This year I realized that you could also substitute "Karl Rove" for "beka'arov" in the chorus. I will have to tell my people next year.

As I'm writing this I'm going through my store of haggadahs and sifting through the Internet. And I'm finding that information does matter. I disagree with what I said a few paragraphs up.
(Do I contradict myself? Very well, then, I contradict myself.) For example, I'm re-reading the Jewish Labor Committee's haggadah and finding a story about the moment the Jews were leaving Egypt and the Pharoah's army was charioting right behind them. In this story, the Red Sea did not divide right away. The Jews panicked. Then one guy, Nachshon, waded in, almost up to his neck. He kept the faith--and the waters parted.

I'm also thinking that discussion might not be necessary. Last night there was some back-and-forth but I wasn't champing at the bit to make one point or the other. Have I longed for *robust* (the current buzz word) discussion from my people as proof that they were listening? Maybe they were listening quietly all these years. It can be enough to learn something interesting. Dayenu.


Education in Nicaragua, 1989

Inflation made the value of the currency change at least every week. Every week a bus token cost more. I have still one piece of Nicaraguan paper money with three zeroes added on, printed officially by the national bank. The electric grid was unstable. It wasn't unusual for the lights to go out in the middle of class. Our room didn't have any windows. There would be certain days when we didn't have running water. Water service was rotated by neighborhood. The night before the water wasgoing to be cut off, we would fill up barrels with water. The plumbing wasn't so great to begin with. You weren't supposed to flush anything, even toilet paper. There was a wastebasket next to each toilet for you to drop your used paper. And you'd need to provide your own toilet paper. This was in the capital city. It had buses that worked, though they were always filled beyond capacity and it was ordinary for young boys to hang from the outside of the bus. There were pay phones, or at least places where there had been pay phones, but every part of the apparatus had been stripped. I could never figure out where I was or how to get anywhere. The street names were informal and most were hand-written signs, named after the local resident who had died with the revolution. My address was something like: three blocks north of the Esso station, a block from where the baobab tree used to be. There were cabs, but for some reason a driver would not turn around. You had to be going in the same direction as the cab. I was teaching English to government health workers, lab technicians with the equivalent of a master's degree and nearly starvation wages. There weren't any photocopying machines. I'd brought my own exercises with me and just went by feel. Everyone was at a different level. The previous teacher, I'd been told, had drilled them on verbs. I'd been told in a way that made me feel I should do the same. So I did some time, or I would help them translate English instructions that came with a machine or instrument, or ask them what they had trouble understanding. They asked me how to pronounce "grocery" and weren't satisfied because they expected a three-syllable British pronunciation. I taught the most advanced student the phrase, I have a time conflict, then wondered if that was idiomatic enough. He grew very attached to that sentence. One day I went to the bathroom at work, and started to toss my used paper in the trash. In the wastebasket I saw something there that looked familiar; it was an exercise from a few days before. I said to myself, At least I know that the handout was useful.

Sunday, April 1, 2007

El Repliegue

Today I felt better as soon as I woke up, though I'd only slept about nine hours, and the night before I must have slept 13. And I can't define or delineate what is better. I still had and have the jittery, run-down-feeling headache. But it didn't bother me as much. How difficult it would be for a doctor to treat me. I'd say, I feel the same, except it was bad yesterday but not today, and I can't tell you how it's different. With this sort of headache, I feel the pain as dispersed pieces of glitter floating in my head, as suspended in gel. I could say amber, but it is more like gel, soft. And I feel I can't unfurrow my brow.

I was thinking yesterday about motivation and encouragement and I thought of the repliegue in Nicaragua in 1989. This is its definition, from La Barricada International , 1995: "an annual re-enactment of the Sandinistas' June '79 tactical retreat from Managua to Masaya." I couldn't have said it better. Even at the time, when people explained it to me, I knew it was a route the guerrillas took, and that two young people in particular had died (because their names were on the t-shirt I bought), but I was unclear about why it was being re-enacted and what exactly it had been. I should say "martyred" instead of "died" because that was the lingo. Young people who were alive were revolutionaries. If they were dead, they were martyrs, and local streets were named after them. Now I'm searching around the Internet to remind or educate myself, and see that it was not a retreat qua retreat that was being celebrated, but a strategic withdrawal, after which the revolutionaries came back to Managua in triumph. I was in Managua on the 10th anniversary of the revolution. I went because I wanted to figure out how the revolution was doing, and whose fault it was. Were its weaknesses due to the Sandinista leadership or to US support of the contras?

Of course, I never figured it out. I spent the summer teaching English to government health workers at the equivalent of the NIH, except it looked like a run-down elementary school with chickens in the yard. I was sick (though I didn't have parasites; I had that checked out) almost the whole time, and came back, my friend S said, almost too thin. I was so sick and weak that I decided not to go on the 19-km. repliegue. It was a Friday afternoon. Then I suddenly decided to join; I was lonely. I started walking and caught up with the march. I started talking to whoever I happened to be walking with. Somehow I found one of the few people I knew who was on the walk, this guy who had come to Nicaragua with the same volunteer program that I had. I joined him and his Nicaraguan host and we slept on the sidewalk in Masaya overnight. In the morning we took the bus home and my friend was pickpocketed. (Another volunteer in our program used to say that he felt like he was a tree that the Nicaraguans would pluck. This was true. They were master pickpocketers. On a crowded bus--the only kind--I lost a camera that was buried in my backpack. And I was cradling the backpack in front of me. I lost a small notebook that had the address of a woman I was going to exchange language lessons with. I never saw the notebook or the woman again. We Norteamericanos used to fantasize about placing mousetraps in our backpacks. I also used to fantasize about getting the pickpocketers on American TV; they could walk through the studio audience and impress everybody with their sleight of hand.) Well, we were there as volunteers, right? To give what was needed? So what was the problem? It was in Nicaragua that I also learned how to give graciously. I had some drawing paper that a friend said another friend would like to have. He said that instead of just leaving it for him, I should write a note. And I did. I also bought someone an entirely superfluous wedding present. I should have given her American money. I still cringe thinking about it.

What is the lesson for me, for my capitalista-individuista psyche about my experience on the repliegue? I didn't expect myself to join the march. No one expected me to. But because no one expected me to, I did. And I was fine. What does this say about motivation and walking when you're weak from chemo?

That if people tell me not to, it's easier to motivate myself? That I'm tougher than I think? I know that often if little is expected of me, I do very well.

Case two. Eight years before this, I was an intern at the Miami Herald. During the first week, an editor said I would need to learn to use the computers. He said, Oh, I'm sure you're a quick study. And I was.

Case three. The lovely and talented Itabari Njeri was doing a criminal justice series at the Miami Herald. She escaped to a fellowship, and I inherited the series. Her editor said to me, This will be great, unless you blow it.
I hated doing the reporting; one of the main sources smoked and littered while he drove. I was afraid I wouldn't write well. A senior reporter ending up helping me, and then I escaped too.

So in one case, there were no expectations, and I excelled. In the other, expectations were high, and I excelled. In the third, there were high expectations, expressed negatively, and I did not do well. What does this prove, Mr. Behavioral Scientist?

I try to lessen my students' anxiety. I say, I'm sure you'll do a good job. Does this help? And am I sure? Am I telling the truth?

It makes me mad to read in Groopman's book about experiments in which people with asthma are told they're getting a dose of albuterol, and then they're able to breathe easily despite being exposed to irritants. But of course, one of those doses of medicine is really saline. I hate being lied to. I hate people telling me asthma is psychosomatic. I hate the idea of people--even human guinea pigs who presumably signed the official forms that said, in essence, OK, lie to me--being lied to. But these were the experiments, as reported to Groopman. I know I keep hearing in my head the hearty voice of the chemo nurse on the phone: I'm sure you'll do great. She said that on two occasions before I asked her: Why do you think that? And she had a reason that I don't remember. Probably having to do with the improved anti-nausea drugs. And I haven't been very nauseated. Of course it is the first week. She said I might have heartburn and I have. She said I might have constipation and I haven't. Yet I know it strengthens me to hear that cheerful, confident voice in my head.

We want to predict the future. We want to know that we'll be safe and happy. People who pray build an image of how they want things to be. They exhort or implore the deity to bless and take care of ... and ... and .... This imagining is powerful and can change physiology. Yet a part of me fights against this. It's too too ... invisible.